Travelling north along what we have come to call the Dragon Spine of Vietnam, the journey has slowly begun to reveal itself as more than a movement across geography. Each place seems to mirror a different stage in the rising of life-force through the body of the land. The path began quietly at Borobudur in Java, where something stirred awake like a whisper at the base of consciousness. At Angkor Wat that awakening met the great axis of Shiva, the stabilising pillar that joins

Our time in Pleiku felt like standing between two ancient forces of the land. On our first morning we travelled out of the city to Chu Đăng Ya, an extinct volcano rising quietly from the Central Highlands. The road wound through small villages and farmland before climbing toward the slopes of the crater. What was once a place of fire has long since softened into fertile soil, its rich volcanic earth now covered in crops and fields. At the summit an ancient tree stood like a s

We arrived at Lak Lake in the middle of the afternoon, descending from the red volcanic plateau of the Central Highlands until the wide lake appeared quietly beneath a soft sky. At first the water seemed almost colourless — a calm grey mirror lying between the hills. After settling in we wandered through the small lakeside town before eventually sitting down at a simple restaurant overlooking the water. It was there, while eating fish from the lake and fresh spring rolls, tha

The Waters of the Central Highlands – Dray Nur & Dray Sap After a rather indulgent morning of great coffee, fresh croissants, and a blissful two- hour massage, our driver, Bon, took us on another dragon adventure. Leaving Buôn Ma Thuột , we travelled through the deep red volcanic lands of Vietnam’s Central Highlands, where the iron-rich soil reveals the ancient forces that once shaped this plateau. Our destination lay along the Sêrêpôk River: the twin waterfalls Dray Nur Wate

Cambodia arrived like a soft dissolving. Coming from the immaculate surfaces of Singapore, Phnom Penh felt as though we had stepped into a landscape that had been stripped back to its elemental layers. The airport rose from the earth in a wide architectural gesture, but beyond it, the city stretched into haze and heat, half-finished buildings standing quietly against the sky while the Mekong River moved with the slow authority of something ancient and patient. The shift was v